Back for Baguettes: Our Parisian Return

They say you can never go home again—but Paris isn’t just a place, it’s a feeling. We have returned to the city that first taught us how to savor life one café crème at a time. For three weeks, we wandered familiar arrondissements and discovered new corners, chasing light along the Seine, and letting the rhythm of the city guide us. This isn’t just a vacation—it’s a reunion with a version of ourselves we miss when away.

The first morning we made a beeline for the newly reopened Notre-Dame. Still bearing the scars of the 2019 fire, yet more radiant than ever, the cathedral stood as a testament to resilience and reverence. Inside, the scent of fresh stone mingled with centuries of incense, and the light filtering through the restored stained glass cast a kaleidoscope of color across the nave. We lingered in silence, awed by the craftsmanship and the quiet hum of history returning to life.

Montmartre was next, where the annual Fête des Vendanges transformed the hill into a jubilant swirl of music, wine, food and laughter. We sipped Bordeaux from plastic wine glasses, ate Raclette sandwiches, and watched the grape harvest parade wind its way past the Sacré-Cœur. The neighborhood buzzed with joy, and for a moment, it felt like we were part of a secret Parisian celebration that had been waiting just for us.

Art, of course, was our constant companion. At the Bourse de Commerce, the Pinault Collection dazzled with its bold contemporary installations housed within a 19th-century grain exchange turned architectural marvel. The Cluny Museum offered a quieter kind of wonder—its medieval tapestries and Roman baths whispering stories from another time. And at the Picasso Museum, we wandered through the artist’s many moods, from playful sketches to brooding masterpieces, each room a new revelation. We had to skip the Louvre as masked thieves pulled off the daring $100 million jewelry heist right as the museum opened for the day. The city buzzed with disbelief as news spread that Napoleon’s crown jewels had vanished in under eight minutes, stolen in broad daylight from the Galerie d’Apollon. A real life “Oceans 11”!

One afternoon led us to the Louis Vuitton Foundation, where the building itself felt like a ship sailing the Atlantic. Inside, the interplay of light, glass, and modern art was mesmerizing. We lost track of time, viewing the six floors of a Gerhard Richter exhibit, before emerging into the beautiful gardens surrounding the museum.

Of course, no Parisian adventure is complete without the simple pleasures. We spent mornings weaving through open-air markets, baskets brimming with figs, cheese, and crusty bread. Afternoons were for aimless strolls along the Seine, where booksellers’ green boxes spilled over with vintage treasures and the city shimmered in the golden light. Evenings brought café terraces, great restaurant, clinking glasses, and the soft glow of streetlamps as we watched the world go by.

Museums, Concert, Day Trip, Cooking Class…

• Notre Dame
• Picasso Museum
• Bourse de Commerce, Pinalt Collection
• Cluny Museum
• Musee D’Orsay
• Louis Vuitton Museum
• Rodin Museum
• Wine Harvest Festival
• Le Sainte Chapelle Concert
• Rouen Day Trip
• La Cuisine Paris Cooking School
• Paradis Latin Show

Markets, Gourmet Stores

• Bastille Market (Thursday & Sunday)
• Raspail Market (Sunday)
• Mache Saxe-Breteuil Market (Thursday & Saturday)
• Belleville (Tuesday & Friday AM)
• Marche des Enfants Rouges – open every day, great place to eat lunch as their are tables everywhere
• G. Detou Gourmet Store
• Bon Marche Gourmet Store/Food Hall
• Maison Plisson Gourmet Store
• Dehillerin Professional Cookware
• La Maison d’Isabelle Bakery – best croissants in Paris

Restaurants

• Semilla – a true gem in the heart of Saint-Germain—elegant yet unpretentious, with a menu that celebrates seasonal ingredients and inventive French cuisine. From the perfectly seared scallops to the warm, attentive service, every detail feels thoughtfully curated, making it one of the most memorable dining experiences in Paris.
• Chez Julian – pure Parisian enchantment—nestled by the Seine in the Marais, it offers Belle Époque elegance with candlelit charm and impeccable French cuisine. From the velvet banquettes to the beautifully plated duck confit, every moment feels like stepping into a romantic film set.
• La Mediterranee – a timeless treasure tucked beside the Théâtre de l’Odéon, offering refined seafood dishes in an art deco setting that feels both elegant and intimate. With its mosaic-tiled walls, vintage charm, and perfectly grilled sea bass, dining here is like stepping into a Riviera dream—right in the heart of Paris.
• Rosemary – is a warm, welcoming bistro that blends traditional French cooking with a touch of playful charm. Every detail feels lovingly curated and delightfully Parisian. Run by seasoned restaurateurs Nina and Philippe Cadeau, Rosemarie has earned a Bib Gourmand from the Michelin Guide for its high-quality, great-value cuisine. The menu celebrates comforting classics—think lemon-zested trout, entrecôte with crispy potatoes, and velvety chocolate tart—all served in a cozy space that evokes mid-century nostalgia with cream tones and vintage accents. Located on rue de l’Université, it’s just a short stroll from the Eiffel Tower and Invalides, making it a perfect stop for lunch or dinner after sightseeing.
• Frenchie – Michelin Star restaurant that is a culinary standout tucked into a quiet lane in the 2nd arrondissement, where modern French cuisine meets global flair with effortless sophistication. From the silky foie gras to the inventive wine pairings, every dish feels like a revelation—refined, bold, and deeply satisfying in a cozy-chic setting.
• Altro Frenchie – a bold, stylish celebration of modern Italian cuisine with a cosmopolitan twist—where every dish feels like a love letter to flavor. Chef Grégory Marchand blends his global influences from London and New York into a menu that’s inventive, vibrant, and deeply satisfying. Located on rue du Nil in the 2nd arrondissement, Altro Frenchie is the Italian sibling to the original Frenchie restaurant, offering a fresh take on trattoria dining. The space is sleek yet welcoming, with warm lighting, polished wood, and an open kitchen that hums with energy.
• Le Sergent Recruteur – a masterclass in modern French gastronomy—elegant, inventive, and deeply rooted in tradition, all within a historic setting on Île Saint-Louis. Chef Alain Pégouret’s Michelin-starred cuisine delivers a symphony of flavors that’s both refined and emotionally resonant. Awarded one Michelin star for its high-quality cooking, the restaurant consistently earns rave reviews for its artistry and precision. Guests praise the staff’s attentiveness, deep menu knowledge, and expert wine pairings. The service is warm, polished, and never intrusive.
• Le Villaret – a quietly exceptional bistro tucked into the 11th arrondissement, where classic French cuisine meets heartfelt hospitality. With its warm, understated ambiance and a menu that celebrates seasonal ingredients—like wild mushrooms, tender lamb, and velvety sauces—it’s the kind of place that feels like a well-kept Parisian secret. The wine list is thoughtful, the service is gracious, and every dish arrives with the kind of care that turns a simple meal into a memorable evening.
• Septine – one of Paris’s most sought-after dining experiences—cool, confident, and quietly revolutionary in its approach to modern French cuisine. Chef Bertrand Grébaut’s Michelin-starred restaurant in the 11th arrondissement delivers ingredient-driven dishes that are both artful and deeply satisfying. Ranked No. 40 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for 2025, Septime is celebrated for its seasonal, sustainable cooking and minimalist elegance. Inventive tasting menus feature a 5-course lunch tasting menu (€85), while dinner expands to 7 courses (€135), with optional wine pairings that highlight natural and biodynamic producers. The neo-industrial space—raw wood, metal beams, and soft lighting—feels effortlessly chic, striking a balance between casual and refined.
• Le Bistro Paul Bert – tucked away on Rue Paul Bert in the 11th arrondissement, this beloved bistro is everything one dreams of when imagining the perfect Parisian meal. From the moment you step inside, the warm hum of conversation, the clink of wine glasses, and the scent of butter and shallots transport you to a bygone era of French culinary romance. The menu is a love letter to tradition, with each dish executed with reverence and flair. The steak frites — legendary for good reason — arrives perfectly seared, its peppercorn sauce rich and soulful. The soufflé, impossibly airy with a touch of Grand Marnier, is a triumph of technique and indulgence. And the wine list? A treasure trove of French gems, curated with passion and precision.
• Aldehyde – recommended by the Chef from our cooking class but haven’t dined there yet
• JaJa – same as above
• Au Bourguignon du Marais – same as above