Traveling through Spain and Portugal – Spring 2024

Chuck and I spent a wonderful month traveling to Barcelona, San Sebastian, Madrid, Porto, Douro Valley and Lisbon. If I had a chance to redo this trip I would make some minor changes; stay longer in San Sebastian, Madrid and Douro Valley and less time in Porto and Lisbon.

Porto and Lisbon have changed dramatically since our last visit before COVID, and not for the better. Seems every American has finally become aware of Portugal and they have flooded the cities. So very crowded, with increased prices (by at least 30%), and they, as we do also, have a homeless problem. Still worth visiting but would only spend three days in each.

Started the trip with two days in Barcelona, to acclimate and visit our second home. Then off to San Sebastian for five mouth watering days!

San Sebastian

San Sebastian is the destination for eating and dining. It has the second most Michelin Stared restaurants per capita in the world (Kyoto is #1). And this whole trip started with me wanting to dine at Arzak. The last time we were in San Sebastian Chuck and my girlfriend got ill and we had to cancel our reservations. I was so disappointed that I had vowed to return and then planned this trip around this dinner! And I was not disappointed.

Restaurants

• Arzak https://www.arzak.es/en/ – It was the best meal I have ever had. The combination of the delicious and creative food, their warm hospitality, and the lovely space made it an experience I will always remember. They have been Michelin starred (they have 3 stars) since 1974, run by Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Elena. Juan is in the process of handing the baton over to Elena and is only at the restaurant a couple nights a week at this point. Elena met us when we arrived, remembered my email asking for reservations, welcomed us and took us for a tour of the kitchen. She was warm, friendly and very informative about the food scene in her home town. She also came out a couple of times during the meal to chat with us. As we sat and processed the menu (we chose the set menu with choice of dishes) we were told that if we didn’t like the dishes for one of the courses they would give us other choices, and even if we ordered and after tasting the dish, we didn’t like it, they would bring us out another. What Michelin starred restaurant does this? They really bend over backwards to please their guests. A must if you happen anywhere near San Sebastian.
• Kokotxa https://restaurantekokotxa.com/en/homepage/ – Located in the center of the old town is this Michelin 1 Star restaurant. It is a pleasant, relaxed space with contemporary cuisine that not only featured Basque traditions but other cultural influences (Indian, Turkish, Japanese…). The menu gives you a choice of two options which vary in the number of courses. On both menus they have a “fish of the day” surprise dish that is always open to the chef’s creativity!
• Lamperna https://lanperna.eus/ – Recommended by our hotel, this was the freshest and tastiest fish we had eaten. All fish is either grille or steamed. Plan, simple and lets the freshness shine through. The restaurant is by the sea, and the owners/chefs are the Sagastume family who are also fishmongers for generations.
• Bar Asador Ganbara https://www.ganbarajatetxea.com/presentation – Michelin recommended for their very busy pintxos bar. The quality of its pintxos has taken this restaurant to the height of success with lines streaming down the street. But it also has an intimate and quaint dining room in the cellar where you can make reservations and dine on delicious seafood. We dined in the cellar and totally enjoyed the evening.

Pintxos

So many Pintzos bars…so little time to eat…so choose the best. Unfortunately they usually have long lines but worth the wait. Below I just listed some of my favorite and ones that were recommended to me, with their specialties!

• Bar Asador Ganbara – Mushroom with egg yolk, spicy crab pie, Gilda
• Bergara – Txalupa (mushrooms, prawns, chives), false lasagna
• Tamboril – Marinated tuna, Russian salad, mushrooms, stuffed pepper
• Beti-Jai-Berria – Truffle rice with foie, toco talo with pig from the region, egg cooked at low temperature
• Txuleta – T-bone skewer
• La Cepa De Bernardo – Iberian ham toast, stuffed pepper, Gavilla
• La Cuchara de San Telmo – Foie with apple sauce, suckling pig
• Casa Urola – Grilled scallops with white garlic, Idiazabal pie
• Borda Berri – False risotto, rib kebab
• Sport – Grill foie, grilled squid, beef cheek
• Kata4 – Oysters, tuna tartar, ceviche

Hotel

Hotel Maria Cristina https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/easlc-hotel-maria-cristina-a-luxury-collection-hotel-san-sebastian/overview/ – This is the hotel to stay in; it is magnificent and the staff is friendly and very helpful ( it also hosts a famous cooking school inside)! The majestic design of this hotel is by architect Charles Mewes, the man responsible for the Ritz in Madrid and Paris. Since it opened in 1912 it has been intimately linked to the history and cultural life of San Sebastian. In the late 19th century this seaside town became a favorite destination for royalty and aristocrats who came to enjoy the sunshine and newly recognized therapeutic properties of sea bathing. A traditional afternoon stroll along the boardwalk offered an opportunity to see and be seen while the many cafes and open air terraces were filled with high society. San Sebastian had passed from being a sleepy fishing village into a thriving cosmopolitan town.

Tours, Museums…

• Viator Biarritz & French Coast Tour (local tour guide was Local Experts Tours)
  • La Corniche Basque – A road that winds along the coast that is rocky with beautiful cliffs – perfect for taking panoramic pictures over the sea.
  • Port de Saint-jean-de-Luz – Traditional village on the French Basque coast. It has a very large and beautiful bay and also a village famous for it’s Labortan architecture and for housing the church of Saint Jean Baptiste where Louis XIV of France was married with Maria Teresa from Spain.
  • Le Port de Guethary – An old seafaring town in front of the sea. A perfect place to have a drink in one of its terraces admiring the beauty of the Cantabrian sea. The spot is very famous for its perfect waves for surfers.
  • Phare de Biarritz – During the 19th and early 20th century it was the summer resort of the European aristocracy. It preserves many palaces and monuments of those times and reached its ultimate splendor during the Belle Epoque in the 1920s and 1930s. Today it is still an exclusive vacation destination with a lot of charm; famous for its French-style restaurants and unique stores.
• Maider Perez Walking Tour – Local guide who gave us a two hour walking tour while discussing the history, architecture, and local curiosities of San Sebastian.
• Donostia Pintxos Tasting – Though Viator; not very good, wouldn’t recommend it
• STEM Museum
• Basilica de Santa Maria del Coro
• Catedral del Buen Pastor
• Museo de San Telmo History Museum
• Iglesia de San Vicente – oldest church in town

Madrid

Restaurants

• Gala Madrid – https://restaurantegala.com/ – What a lovely find! A small restaurant offering market cuisine, totally dependent on the daily availability of products, with creative, attractive and delicious dishes. The menu changes with the arrival of each season, and the tasting menu allows you to take a “stroll” through the dishes that show off the wide breath of their wonderful cuisine.
• La Casa del Abuela –https://lacasadelabuelo.es/ – Casual, local taverns, with the best one on c.de la Victoria, 12. It is famous for it Gambas Al Ajillo which arrives at the table sizzling and delicious.
• Taberna Cava Baja 17 – https://www.facebook.com/CavaBaja17/ – Casual, fun, local Tapas Bar. Good tapas, lively crowds and decent service for all the hustle and bustle.
• Jose Maria (Segovia) – https://www.restaurantejosemaria.com/ – Excellent restaurant, the best in Segovia. Reservations are a must, even for lunch. But if you forget, they have a great Tapas Bar in the front of the house that you can also dine and drink in. Roast suckling pig is  considered the flagship of their menu and definitely worth ordering.

• Ganz Wine Bar – Looking for a place for lunch, we just happened upon this casual and welcoming wine bar/restaurant. It has the cosmopolitan feel of a Parisian bistro in the heart of Madrid and a must-visit for anyone who loves wine. The plates, designed to share and match the wines, are on the menu all year round, but there is always something new or a seasonal dish for those who want to -and can- regularly eat and drink at this restaurant.
• Vinotecas – https://vinotecavides.es/en/home_en/ – Another great wine and Tapas bar that is casual and comfortable.
• Taberna La Elisa – https://www.tabernalaelisa.com/ – One of “the” meeting places in the Barrio de las Letras (Literary Quarter) to enjoy typical Madrid cuisine. The tavern, which was formerly an Irish pub, is a blend of gourmet and traditional cuisine. On the pub’s ground floor, there is a large traditional bar while the basement holds a dining room with several tables. The menu offers raciones (“platters”, available in whole, half or one-third sizes), stews and a wide variety of signature tapas.

• Posada Diavilla – https://www.posadadelavilla.com/english/ – Michelin restaurant, La Posada de la Villa has three floors, the interior decoration is elegant, with the charm of an inn of the Old Madrid. The food is delicious and meat centric (though their is fish on the menu). Specialties are Roast Lamb in a wood- fired oven, the Stew Pot, and Hen in Madrilean sauce.
• Mercado de San Miguel – https://mercadodesanmiguel.es/en/ – I don’t know how to describe this market but to say it is jaw dropping! The space has over 20 food stalls, all packed with the most delicious looking tapas, food, wine/beer, and desserts. It is mobbed with people all eating, drinking and partying. Such a fun place…a must!

Hotel

• Palacio de Los Duques, Gran Melia – http://www.melia.com – Lovely 19th century palace converted into a luxury hotel located in the heart of Madrid next to the Royal Palace and Royal Theatre.

Day Trips, Museums…

• Segovia – Our Viator tour cancelled on us so we decided to do our own. And so glad this happened as we had a great day exploring the ancient city of Segovia. It is an easy one hour train ride. The highlight, and most amazing site, is the Roman aqueduct. It is breathtaking and in excellent shape framing the city. We also visited the Alcazar of Segovia, existing since roman times, San Esteban Church, San Esteban church Iglesia de San Millan, Saint Millan church, Monasterio Sta. Maria del Parral, Monastery 4 La Juderia and the Jewish neighbourhood, Museo Zuloaga, and Museo Zuloaga
• Reina Sofia – https://www.museoreinasofia.es/en – Travel through the 20th Century’s art, from Modernism to Cubism’s zenith: Just to see his most famous work, Picasso’s Guernica, is worth the visit. 
• Thyssem – https://www.museothyssen.org/en – Located near the Prado Museum, it is known as part of the “Golden Triangle of Art”, which also includes the Prado and the Reina Sofia national galleries. With over 1,600 paintings, it is one of the largest private collection in the world and is well known for its Impressionist collection.

Porto

Lovely small city with many hills, so get ready for some serious walking/exercise. Unfortunately there is a lot of construction going on and hordes of tourists. That’s the price you pay for visiting popular Portugal!

Restaurants

• Gruta – https://grutaporto.com/ – Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant and our favorite in Porto. This is one of those of restaurants where you can eat well at a reasonable price, to a backdrop of stylish yet informal decor. The setting is in an alleyway just off a shopping street. Chef Rafaela Louzada, from Rio but with Portuguese roots, focuses on a concise menu on which fish and seafood (mainly from the north of the country) take center stage. Her dishes are high on presentation and flavor, combining Brazilian and Portuguese influences and a contemporary style of cooking.

• Adega Sao Nicolau – https://adegasnicolau.eatbu.com/?lang=en – We love this restaurant and have been back every time we visit Porto. You enter into what feels like a wine barrel, get seated in the warm and charming dining room and sit back and enjoy the wine and food! The octopus salad appetizer is a must.
• Orangeie – https://www.the-yeatman-hotel.com/en/food/the-orangerie/ – This charming restaurant was located in our hotel, The Yeatman. Lovely setting, dining while looking out at the sunset over Porto, with great wine selections and delicious food.
• Flow – https://www.flowrestaurant.pt/en/slider/index.html – One of the hip, hot restaurants in town. Lovely space but the service was poor (so crowded that the service people were totally overwhelmed) and the food uninteresting. I would not recommend eating here.

Hotel

• InterContinental – I wouldn’t stay here again as the service was mediocre and major construction is going on all around the hotel (building an underground train system but found ancient ruins so at a standstill) making it difficult to maneuver in and out.
• The Yeatman – https://www.the-yeatman-hotel.com/en/hotel-porto/history/ – Loved this hotel and would definitely stay here on my next visit. It is located in the historic heart of Vila Nova de Gaia next to the ancient ‘lodges’ where Port houses have aged their wines for over three centuries. The Yeatmans, who entered the Port trade in 1838, were among the most distinguished and enterprising of the Port families. Their descendants are owners of three of the most famous Port companies. In 2006 the opportunity arose for another high profile project, a landmark luxury hotel in a stunning location overlooking the historic center of  Oporto. Named The Yeatman, in celebration of the family’s historic link with the city, it specializes in both fine wine production and luxury hotel management and is certainly one of the world’s leading wine hotels.  

Day Trips, Museums…

• Viator Aveiro & Costa Nova Tour – Aveiro and Costa Nova may be two places to visit but DON’T do it with this tour company (the local company is Living Tours – stay clear of them). They advertise as a small group tour and when you show up their are 30 people and a large bus! They tell you it is in the fine print that they have the right to increase if there is demand. And then they dump you in Costa Nova on your own and put you on a crowed boat in Aveiro and leave you.
• Museu National – At more than two hundred years old, the Museu Nacional Soares dos Reis is the oldest public museum in Portugal and the most famous in Porto. The collections of the museum feature prints, antiques, ceramics and objects made out of glass. The most impressive part of the Museum is its collection of paintings and sculptures, among which some of the most magnificent pieces are by António Soares dos Reis, a Portuguese sculptor born in 1847.  The Museum was named after the artist when it obtained his works.
• Serralves Museum – Contemporary art museum with large beautiful grounds (44 acres) that you can stroll.
• WOW (world of wine) – https://www.wow.pt/en – A wonderful experience to both visit, drink wine outdoors and have lunch. It is owned by the same team as the Yeatman Hotel. Located right below the hotel, WOW was born from renovated old Port wine warehouses, that have given rise to a district containing seven museums, twelve restaurants and bars, shops, and a wine school. ‍
• Porto Cathedral – Built in the highest part of the city, the Sé Cathedral is a Roman Catholic Church and the most important religious building in Porto. It is located in the Batalha district, next to the walls that once protected the city. The exterior of the building has the appearance of a fortress with battlements.

Douro Valley

This and San Sebastian were the favorite parts of our trip. And the enjoyment in Douro was mainly due to our hosts/tour guide at Douro Exclusive https://douroexclusive.com/. This is our third visit to Douro and each time we put ourselves in the hands of Ana & Marco (lovely, young married couple who were born & live in Douro). After the pandemic they bought property and built a small, charming guest house and restaurant, Casa do Arco, on a hill overlooking the valley and river.

We booked a two day tour with Ana, rooms at their guest house, plus dinner at Casa do Arco, and all three were perfect! Ana works with you to put together your itinerary, but knows all the small, family vineyards with top quality wines and the most picturesque places, with great food, to have lunch. The vineyards that we visited are listed below as well as the restaurants.

Hotel

• Casa do Arco https://douroexclusive.com/ – Each of the spacious, three rooms have floor to ceiling windows with breathtaking views. As does the dining room and living room where you can relax with a glass of wine before dinner or a Port afterwards. There is a large outdoor space with a pool and the same gorgeous views.

Vineyards, Wine Tastings

• Quinta de Tourais – https://quintadetourais.com/en/index.html – Our favorite visit, hosted by Fernando & Lilly, the husband and wife owners/winemakers. Vineyard, cellar tour and tasting of DOC Reds, Whites, family Ports (tasted a Port Fernando’s grandfather had produced) and Olive Oil. Spent a very enjoyable couple of hours drinking and talking with Fernando and Lilly.
• Quinta da Gaivosa from Alves de Sousa producer – Family owned vineyard (5 generations) where we tasted some delicious DOC Reds, White wines and Premium Ports.

• Quinta do Crasto – https://www.quintadocrasto.pt/ – One of the larger producers in the Valley but have delicious wines and a magnificent view of the valley from their vineyard. We lunched in their outdoor terrace restaurant, with wine pairings, enjoying the Valley view.
• Macanita Brothers & Winemakers – https://www.antoniomacanita.com/en/wineries/vinhos-macanita/media/macanita-brothers-and-winemakers – An exciting project of two two oenologists António Maçanita,  and his sister, Joana Maçanita.  Joana and António have shared a dream for a long time of creating a wine together, which would reveal both their characters and personalities; a “Maçanita style” wine, whose fruity character is the predominant note. Antonio is quite famous in Douro and consults for other wineries. We were lucky to have him and his sister host us during our tour and listed to their story and vision as we tasted a few of their lovely DOC dry red & white wines.
• Quinta dos Murcas – Vineyard and cellar tour followed by DOC red, white and port tastings

Restaurants

• Quinta do Crasto (see above)
• DOC – https://www.docrestaurante.pt/en/ – We had a wonderful lunch and wine paring at this Michelin Star restaurant, lead by Chef Rui Paula. We sat on the lovely patio, with breathtaking views of the Douro River, dining on Rui Paula’s modern and inventive cuisine.
• Casa do Arco – (see hotel above) – We had two wonderful dinners at their charming restaurant with some of the most delicious wine!

Lisbon

Hope you are in shape, because like Porto, you will be climbing steep hills wherever you are headed. It does help keep the weight off from all the great food and wine you will be consuming. (But there actually is a Handicap Accessible Google Map to help you avoid the majority of them!)

Restaurants

• Loco – https://www.loco.pt/en/ – Our favorite restaurant in Lisbon. This Michelin 1 Star restaurant is full of surprises as soon as you step through the door, starting with the tree hanging from the ceiling of the entrance hall – a sensation that is enhanced by its extensive designer features and a completely open-view kitchen. Head chef Alexandre Silva’s culinary philosophy is focused on a single surprise tasting menu comprising 16 “moments” or courses, each one better than the last.
• Lisboa a Noite – https://www.lisboanoite.com/en/homepage/ – A hidden gem, and actually well hidden and a bit difficult to find as it is situated on a side street and non-descript from the outside. But once inside the restaurant is a very lovely space. We were welcomed by a friendly staff and our waiter was quite a character. We ordered the salt crusted whole seabass, which comes out flaming, and was so fresh and delicious! Our hotel made the reservations and I gather they told them it was our anniversary, as our waiter brought out a beautiful dessert platter, with Happy Anniversary written in chocolate, and glasses of champagne for us to celebrate with. A perfect evening.
• Sacramento do Chiado – https://www.sacramentodochiado.com/pt.html – The interior design of this restaurant is relaxing and unique, as it is housed in ancient stables of the Santa Justa Convent. Food is excellent and they have a interesting wine list. They are famous for the “trilogy of codfish”, but I really dislike codfish in Portugal as it is salt cod rehydrated – too chewy and tough for me. I’d recommend any other fish dish.
• Monte Mar Lisboa – https://www.montemar.pt/en/Lisboa – It was fun to dine in this industrial-chic restaurant overlooking the Rio Tejo. Definitely reserve an outdoor table and dine watching the sunset over the water. Great fresh fish and seafood!
• See Me – https://peixariamoderna.com/ – One of our favorite restaurants in Lisbon. You must sit at the bar, not the crowded dining room, and befriend the bartenders (they are great – funny, friendly and very knowledgeable). Tell them in general what you like (wines and seafood), then put yourself in their hands and sit back and enjoy!
• Maria Catita – Pleasant, casual restaurant for an easy dinner. I don’t like fried food but they had the best homemade potato chips I’ve ever tasted. Don’t miss ordering them.
• Solar dos Presuntos – https://www.solardospresuntos.com/ – Disliked the entire experience, from not allowing you to enter till your allotted time, telling you how long you had to dine so they can turn the table, and packing people in so close they should be family. If you like eating in a cavernous NYC Theatre District tourist restaurant, this is for you. Otherwise skip it!
• Bairro Alto Hotel Roof Bar – https://www.reservations.com/hotel/bairro-alto-hotel?rmcid=rcc4&msclkid=25e382e333a015d9911ee44c8399a843&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Top%20Hotels&utm_term=The%20Bairro%20Alto%20Hotel&utm_content=Bairro%20Alto%20Hotel_1789869 – Great bar with the best views of the city. We made sure we had cocktails during sunset – gorgeous!
• A Cozinha Sr. Lisboa – Recommended by a friend who just returned from Lisbon. Everyone working there was into the food and passionate about their work. Reservations a must. Cash only. Away from tourists, more local environment, although not sure how long that local feel will last with all the development. I loved the food and funky casual  atmosphere. We ate downstairs by kitchen.  They have two more associated Lisbon  locations with different names and menus. 

Hotel

• Pousada de Lisboa – https://www.hilton.com/en/hotels/lispllx-pousada-de-lisboa/ -A Small Luxury Hotel of the World, is situated in the heart of Lisbon by the corner of Praça do Comércio steps from the ocean/harbor. Perfect location, great service, and comfortable rooms, with a reasonable price.

Day Trips, Museums…

• Viator – Tomar Knights Templar Tour
  • Castelo de Almourol – Built on a small island 310 meters long and 75 meters wide, in the middle course of the Tagus River, Almourol was part of the Tagus river Line and is one of the most representative examples of the military architecture of the time at the time of the Christian Reconquest, the Knights of the Order of the Templars, were in charge of the settlement of the territory between the river Mondego and the Tagus river, and of the defense of Coimbra, then capital of Portugal. High walls, reinforced by adjoining towers, dominated by a keep, closely linked to the beginning of the kingdom of Portugal and the history of the Templars, a rough and rough fortress shrouded in mystery tells the people, without any proof, that there would be hidden the “treasure of the Templars”.
  • Igreja de Santa Maria dos Olivais – Also known as the Church of Santa Maria do Olival, is located on the left bank of the river Nabao, in the city of Tomar. The first temple founded around 1160 by D. Gualdim Pais, master of the Order of the Knights Templar, where a Benedictine monastery was formerly erected, was the seat of the Order of the Templars in Portugal, having served as pantheon of the Order’s masters. With the extinction of the Order by the Church (Pope Clement V) and King François Philip IV (known as the Beautiful), this church became the head of the Order of Christ, becoming the headquarters of all the churches of the Portuguese Empire, with honors of Cathedral Cathedral.
  • Convento de Cristo – The entrance of the Convent is made through a portico, an authentic sculpture by João and Diogo de Castilho, in the first church built by the Templar´s master Gualdim Pais. With the glories of the maritime expansion it is renovated with lush constructions in Manueline style, which has in it the famous Window of the Chapter, its greatest evidence.
  • Synagogue of Tomar – in the center of Tomar is the oldest Portuguese Synagogue, its roof is supported by four columns representing the mothers of Israel: Sarah, Rachel, Rebecca and Leah, linked by 12 arches, symbolising the 12 tribes of Israel with four terracotta jars in the corners that serve as natural amplifiers. This temple was commissioned by Infante D. Henrique, ( Henry the Navigator ), for whom the Jewish community financed most of the Discoveries project. In 1496 the jews are expelled from Portugal with the marriage of the Portuguese king Dom Manuel I with the daughter of the “Spanish” Catholic Kings and the synagogue was closed down, used for various purposes during centuries, when it was bought by Dr. Samuel Schwarz, who donated it to the State, on the condition that the Museu Luso-Hebraico was installed there.
• St. George’s Castle – This ancient building saw many civilizations come and go and is a testament to Lisbon’s origins. It has imposing towers and battlements, as well as the breathtaking views of Lisbon and the Tagus River that are not to be missed.
• CasCais – This seaside town is a perfect day trip from Lisbon (1/2 to 1 hour by train). Lovely beaches, cobble stone streets, 19th century villas, an imposing Fort, museums, bars and restaurants with wonderfully fresh seafood.
• Belem Tower – UNESCO World Heritage site that provided protection for the city. Explore the different sections within Belém Tower, from the gun room to the prison, and take in panoramas of the River Tagus and 25th of April Bridge. Get tickets in advance as the lines get quite long.
• Calouste Gulbenkian Museum – https://gulbenkian.pt/museu/en/welcome/ – Houses one of the world’s most important private art collections. It includes works from Ancient Egypt to the early 20th century, spanning the arts of the Islamic World, China and Japan, as well as the French decorative arts, and some of the most important painters of all times.
• MAAT (Modern Art, Architecture & Technology) – https://www.maat.pt/en – It’s a museum where these three areas intertwine within a space of debate, discovery, critical thinking and international dialogue. MAAT is the new cultural center for Lisbon.

And I end with more memories of Arzak! Can’t wait to return.