Well I finally did it, I retired! Now Chuck and I can take as many vacations as we like, for as long as we like. So we planned one immediately after my retirement. Couldn’t think of a better place to celebrate the next phase of my life than France, and to revisit the places we love. So we were off to Provence (two weeks), Burgundy (one week) and Paris (one week)!

Three friends wanted to join us for two weeks and they decided on Burgundy and Paris. We have traveled with them prior, they are really fun, and have similar interests (most importantly they love good food and wine). Let the party begin!

The lovely towns of Provence

Provence

Traveling through Provence was a sensory delight, with its rolling lavender fields, sun-warmed vineyards, and postcard-perfect hilltop villages perched above the countryside. Each stop felt like uncovering a hidden gem—Gordes with its stone facades glowing in the afternoon light, Roussillon bathed in ochre tones, and Ménerbes offering quiet charm and sweeping views. We meandered through local markets brimming with fragrant herbs, cheeses, and olives, and spent long, leisurely afternoons tasting rosé and bold reds at family-run wineries. The rhythm of life in Provence is slow and sweet, inviting you to savor every view, every sip, and every golden sunset over the Luberon hills.

L’Isle-sur-la-Dorgue
Chateau in Lourmarin
Les Baux-de-Provence

Highlights

  • Museum of Prehistory of the Gorges du Verdon – https://www.tourism-alps-provence.com/museum-prehistory-gorges-du-verdon/ – Fascinating! One of our favorite side trips in Provence. The museum showcases the results of archaeological digs carried out in the Verdon for over 50 years. And it is certainly a trip back in time with its circuit of alternating scenes from everyday life in prehistoric times, interactive displays and original archaeological artefacts. The museum is one of the biggest Museums of Prehistory in Europe. Worth the trip!
  • L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue – We loved this charming Provencal town with its numerous canals and branches of the Sorgue (it is nicknamed the Venice of the Comtat).  We visited on Market Day and there were about 300 stalls selling food, clothes and antiques (found out later that the town has many antique and second-hand goods dealers). Birthplace of the poet Rene Char, the town is also home to many galleries and exhibitions. We plan on staying here on our next visit, at the Grand Hotel Henri. What a gorgeous hotel with beautiful gardens and a very upscale restaurant, and right in the middle of the town.
  • Lourmarin – This pretty village sits in a valley, separating the Grand Luberon mountains from the Petit Luberon. In contrast to many other villages in Vaucluse, Lourmarin is only slightly hilly, with narrow cobbled streets and quaint cafes and streets, spiraling up to the Chateau at the top of the village. Bustling café terraces spill out onto the pavements and squares and there’s a relaxed and sophisticated vibe.
  • Fountain-de-Vaucluse – This was our second visit (first was on our last trip to Provence pre-COVID) to this village which takes its name from the beautiful and mysterious spring feeding the river Sorgue. This spring comes from deep underground – nobody knows how deep. In the 50s, Jacques Cousteau came with a submersible to explore the depths but did not find the bottom. Since then a probe has made it to a sandy bed at a depth of 1010 feet but the spring itself comes from somewhere even deeper. It is said that all the rainwater from the Luberon and other surrounding mountains comes out of this one source. For most of the year all you can see is a deep blue pool of water at the bottom of towering cliffs, which is what we saw during our visit. But we were told that during spring or very heavy rainfall it lives up to its name, with water gushing out at 52,000 gallons every second – this is one of the largest springs in the world. This extraordinary phenomenon forms the crystal-clear Sorgue river, which turns a startling emerald green, and it’s this vivid hue that you see dominating the town.
  • Les Baux-de-Provence – Les Baux is a spectacular rock plateau 250m up in the sky with views south over the Alpilles, and to Arles, and the Camargue. It has such a superb defensive, dominant position that there are traces of habitation going back to 6000 BC. The preserved village of Les Baux has many restaurants and tourist shops, and at the end of that is the entrance to the castle and plateau, the ‘dead village’. Here you can walk around the ruins of the castle and houses, climb up to the top of the dungeon tower for even better views, and inspect the siege engines – wooden catapults and a ramming device. The village part of Les Baux is attractive enough to be officially one of The Most Beautiful Villages in France. Every visitor to this part of Provence visits Les Baux, so go early if you don’t like crowds. You park at the bottom of the village and explore on foot.

Hotels

Our strategy was to to splurge on a few hotels and the Airbnb and then save on others. It actually worked out pretty well, with some amazing stays and others that were perfectly fine.

  • Le Meridien Nice – https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/ncemd-le-meridien-nice/overview/ – I had Bonvoy points so used them for our two days in Nice. We have stayed here before and it is pleasant and conveniently located next to our car rental, SIXT. The large Suites, on the top floor, overlooking the ocean are spectacular if you can book one. And they have a lovely roof bar that is great anytime.
Hostellere de L’Abbaye de la Celle
La Bastide de Voulonne
Le Mirande Hotel – Breakfasting in the Garden
  • Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de la Celle (La Celle, Provence) https://www.abbaye-celle.com/en/ – Our favorite hotel (and dinner) on the trip. It is Alain Ducasse’s charming 18th-century inn with his Michelin Starred Restaurant. The hospitality, personalized welcome, and conviviality can all be felt the moment you enter this peaceful hotel. It is located n the heart of a Provençal village, La Celle, surrounded by vineyards, cypress trees and centuries-old olive groves. It was a place to recharge your batteries and relax, to taste and savor exceptional food (breakfasts and dinners). A must stay. We are planning a longer visit on our next trip to Provence.
  • Aquabella – (Aix-en-Provence) Location was great but it was very unimpressive. Certainly did not live up to the website pictures. A corporate hotel with stark rooms. Think low-end Marriott or Sheraton.
  • La Bastide de Voulonne (Gordes, Provence)- https://www.bastide-voulonne.com/en – A charming farmhouse run by an English Mother and Daughter team. Warm, friendly, homey (rustic actually) and very reasonable. But don’t dine there, more bland English cuisine than French.
  • La Mirande Hotel – (Avignon, Provence) https://www.la-mirande.fr/– Our second favorite hotel. This 5-star boutique hotel is named after the famous room in the Popes’ Palace “La Mirande” and was originally established by the representatives of the Popes to receive the city’s notables and high dignitaries visiting the town. The hotel is beautiful, rooms charming and the restaurant warm and opulent at the same time. Their restaurant has earned a Michelin Star and also has a Cooking School.

Restaurants

Hostellere de L’Abbaye Restaurant
Olive et Artichaut Reataurant
  • Fine Gueule, Nice – https://finegueule.fr/ – In Nice’s old town, this restaurant’s newly refurbished interior is organized around an open kitchen and a counter where customers can sit to eat. But the real pleasure is to be found in the food, with traditional dishes chalked up on the board each day, including for starters the home-made pissaladière (a savory specialty from Nice whose origin is Genoese). It is similar to a pizza with bread dough and a topping made from local products). Also don’t miss the calamari a la plancha.
  • Olive et Artichaut, Nice – https://oliveartichaut.com/ – A small, charming restaurant that is very casual and welcoming, located down an ally in Old Nice. You are greeted by the young owner Aurélie Marion with Thomas Hubert, partner, in the kitchen cooking in front of everyone at the end of the bar. Our waiter was extremely helpful and gave us tips on restaurants and vineyards to visit while in Provence.
  • Hostellere de L’Abbaye de la Celle, La Celle – https://www.abbaye-celle.com/fr/gastronomie.html – Fantastic, delicious, beautiful, comfortable…what else can I say about this perfect restaurant. The dishes created by Chef Nicolas Pierantoni, a native of the village of La Celle, fit naturally into this tranquility space: they reveal the colors, scents and flavors of the region, enhancing local products. with creativity and delicacy.
  • Le Jardin, Brignoles – https://www.lejardinbrignoles.fr/ – Lovely small restaurant in this local village near La Celle. The food is creative, mixing Mediterranean, Asian, American fusion for some very delicious, creative dishes.
  • Licandro le Bistro, Aix – https://www.licandrolebistro.com/ – Located right in the heart of Aix, this small family business is run by chef Felipe Licandro, who honed his skills in some of France’s top establishments, and his wife Julie. Great choices and fantastic food, with warm and friendly service. Do make sure you book in advance as the restaurant is small and we watched lots of disappointed walk-ins. 
  • Les Inseparables, Aix- https://www.lesinseparablesaix.fr/ – Beautiful garden setting and wonderful service, but the food was mediocre. I recommend skipping this restaurant.
  • La Mirande Restaurant, Avignon https://www.la-mirande.fr/en/restaurant-avignon-provence.html – This Michelin Star restaurant was located in our lovely hotel and should not be missed. Breathtaking space with food to match. They also have a casual Bistro in a lush garden with delicious food.
  • La Fourchette, Avignon – We loved every aspect of this restaurant. Atmosphere was homey but sophisticated. Staff is very professional, but also relaxed and friendly, and the food is incredible!! We will definitely go back.

Burgundy

I love Burgundy and everything about it. The wines (of course), the food, the lovely Villages, and the friendly people. White Burgundy’s are my favorite white wine, and has spoiled me so that I have difficulty drinking any other whites. The reds are pretty wonderful also!

We stayed in Beaune the full week, and for the first time in France, stayed in an Airbnb, which was a lovely experience. Our host was also a viniculturist and can do a tasting and wine lesson at the apartment when you arrive.

We also have a dear friend, Carissa, who moved from NYC to Burgundy to marry the man she met while working in a vineyard one harvest. She made us a delicious lunch, we got to meet her lovely family, and she supplied us with local recommendations.

Wines of Burgundy

Sightseeing: Tours, Villages, Vineyards…

  • Authentica Wine Tours – This company is quite expensive (private tours only) but I had used them on a previous trip to Burgundy and thought they were worth the expense. Not this time, what a disappointment! The guide was ok (not as knowledgeable as I would have expected) but the choice of vineyards was terrible, not your top Burgundy wineries. I had requested two specific wineries, which they agreed to, and then changed on me that day. I won’t use them again.
  • Auxois Region – So much to see in this region. Don’t miss Fontenay Abbey, listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, the medieval town of Semur-en-Auxois, Flavigny-sur-Ozerain and Châteauneuf-en-Auxois (Two of the “Most Beautiful Villages of France”),and the Château de Bussy-Rabutin, Château de Commarin and the MuséoParc Alésia.
  • Joseph Drouhin – https://www.drouhin.com/en_US/visits-and-tastings One of my two favorite winery’s to visit. Located in the center of Beaune, with great wines and a cellar that is a catacomb running under the entire town.
  • Oliver Leflaiv Winery – https://www.olivier-leflaive.com/en/ -My other favorite, located in the lovely town of Puligny-Montrachet. This hotel / vineyard can’t be missed. Your tasting is in the hotel gardens, without the hordes of tourists that you encounter at a lot of vineyards, which certainly enhances the experience. I would look at staying at the hotel during our next visit (and of course, drinking as much of their wine as possible).

Hotels

Restaurants

Clos du Cedre Restaurant
Loiseau des Vignes Restaurant
  • Le Pre aux Clercs, Dijon – https://www.lepreauxclercs.fr/ – What this Brasserie lacks in decor (red walls, highly lit up…diner feel) it makes up in the quality of the food. You must order the Beef Cheeks as it was one the most memorable dishes on our trip.
  • Spica, Dijon – https://www.restaurantspica.com/ – Small, warm, relaxed restaurant with great service and food. Chef Takaya Uchida has worked in gourmet restaurants in the Tokyo region and brings an interesting fusion take on Burgundy food.
  • Les Cave Madeleine, Beaune https://cavesmadeleine.com/ – Another small, cozy restaurant with tables a bit close, but it encouraged socializing and we met a lovely couple who we chatted with during the evening. The wine list is excellent and very well priced.
  • Loiseau des Vignes, Beaune – The atmosphere and service could use a little help but the food was very good. I had eaten here on another trip and had remembered it as much better, but we learned at this visit that the chef had passed away so maybe we were experiencing the transition.
  • Ma Cuisine, Beaune https://www.macuisinebeaune.com/ – A cute bistro in the center of town. Good food and excellent wine list.
  • Clos du Cedre, Beaune https://en.cedrebeaune.com/ – Love this dinner in this elegant hotel and restaurant (Michelin Star restaurant) that was a master winegrower’s house. Michelin described it perfectly “The idyllic scene is set to sample the work of youthful chef Jordan Billan, who is brilliantly pursuing this house’s heritage. Pure-bred French classics deftly and delicately curated and tailored to today’s modern palates, using outstanding produce: crisp, crunchy langoustine, gribiche sauce and capers; poultry, cream of broccoli, quinoa and radishes, mustard and honey gravy.”

Paris

Returning to Paris felt like slipping back into a favorite novel—familiar, comforting, and endlessly captivating. No matter how many times we visit, the city’s timeless elegance and effortless charm never fail to enchant. From early morning strolls along the Seine to evenings spent watching the Eiffel Tower sparkle, Paris offers a rhythm and romance all its own. This time, we revisited beloved neighborhoods, indulged in new culinary discoveries, and allowed ourselves to simply wander, soaking in the beauty of the architecture, the art, and the unmistakable Parisian spirit that keeps drawing us back.

Hotel

  • Residence des Arts https://www.hotelresidencedesartsparis.com/ – Small charming hotel that is very reasonably priced, especially for Paris. I would stay here again but would opt for a suite as the room we booked was extremely small.

Restaurants

  • Vantre, Paris – https://vantre.fr/ – Lovely, small restaurant with great food and service.
  • Frenchie, Paris – http://www.frenchie-restaurant.com/en/home/ – A Michelin 1 Star restaurant that is one of my favorites in Paris…though it is not easy to get reservations so try early. The chef, Grégory Marchand, learned the trade in top international restaurants and has now set up in a tiny, homey spot with bricks, beams, stones, and a view of the kitchen. It is always packed and for good reason. The chef’s cooking is international with unusual blends of flavors; menu is prix-fix and they offer wine pairings. It is fully deserving of its current media hype and success. The atmosphere is cheerful with a great vibe flowing between the kitchen and the dining room, helped greatly by the dedicated young staff. It is possible to offer a fine dining experience that is both fun and laid-back!
  • Le Villaret, Paris – https://www.levillaret-restaurant.fr/ – This cozy bistro serves traditional and seasonal gourmet cuisine prepared by enthusiastic chef Olivier Gaslain. For dessert, his original take on the rum baba will leave you speechless! A superb wine list with more than 1 000 labels, a sample of which is displayed in a beautiful glass wine cabinet.
  • Semilla, Paris – https://www.semillaparis.com/ – A lovely bistro with an exceptionally friendly atmosphere and trendy, industrial-style decor. In the kitchen, which opens directly onto the restaurant floor, a young and enthusiastic team work exclusively with fresh, selected produce: sea bream ceviche, leche de tigre, quince confit with hibiscus and kohlrabi; roasted cod, Granville cockles, Roscoff onion, Poiré sauce. Delicious and brilliantly done!
  • L’Absinthe, Paris – https://www.restaurantabsinthe.com/ – A French Bistro with traditional food. Not my favorite dinner but good for lunch.
  • Marcello, Paris – https://www.marcello-paris.com/ – If you need a night of Italian flavors after all your French food, this is your place. Lovely restaurant with excellent food, specializing in fresh, homemade pastas. Beautiful outside garden in the warm weather.

As our journey through Provence, Burgundy, and Paris came to an end, we were filled with a deep sense of appreciation for the richness and variety France has to offer. From the sun-drenched vineyards and hilltop villages of Provence to the rolling wine country and culinary delights of Burgundy, each region offered its own unique rhythm and charm. Ending in Paris, with its timeless beauty and cultural vibrancy, felt like the perfect finale—a return to a city that never stops inspiring. This trip was a celebration of all the things we love most about travel: slow mornings, unforgettable meals, breathtaking landscapes, and the joy of discovering something new in even the most familiar places.

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